Whisper it, but Palermo is having a moment. Its days as Italy’s Mafia-blighted problem child are becoming a thing of the past as the city emerges as one of the country’s most liveable, vibrant and, of course, sunniest towns. And what better way to experience it than by staying at Villa Igiea, the Belle-Époque grand dame that put it on the tourist map over a century ago?
The hotel is not actually in the centre of town but this isn’t really a problem. Firstly, because Palermo isn’t huge (and there’s a free, regular, 15-minute shuttle bus from the hotel to the centre), and secondly, because you might not want to leave. We certainly didn’t. We could easily have spent days idling by the pool, gazing out over the Gulf of Palermo, ambling around the gardens, or just grabbing a book and chowing down at one of its restaurants. Essentially, if languid lounging here was good enough for Grace Kelly, Queen Victoria and the King of Siam, it’s good enough for us.
The hotel was opened by the Florios (once Italy’s second-richest family) at the turn of the last century and promptly established itself as one of the world’s first luxury hotels. Over 100 years later in 2021, it was relaunched by Rocco Forte Hotels with 72 rooms and 28 suites (six of them accessible) divided between the main building and the Palazzina Donna Franca, an adjacent annexe, where we stayed. Our deluxe room was spacious and quiet and we loved waking up and opening the French windows looking out onto the sunny terrace first thing. The standout for us, though, was our bathroom, featuring a giant tub and walk-in shower clad in great swathes of Carrara marble – classic luxe, sure, but also pleasingly Pretty Woman.
Design director Olga Polizzi, Rocco Forte’s sister, has done a sterling job with the decor throughout the Villa Igiea, letting the original craftsmanship shine – so much so that you’ll find guests wandering about, taking photos of the hand-carved wooden staircases, the Chinese vases in the ballroom and the art-nouveau painted walls and magnificent lights in the Sala Basile reception hall. The only downside of such an authenticity-forward approach (the building is listed) are the original lifts, which are awkwardly small.
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| The Sophisticate | PMO | GMT +1 |
| While you’re Out There |
| Built in 1473, the Palazzo Alliata di Pietratagliata has been in the same family for six centuries and features various architectural styles, from late Gothic to rococo, as well as the largest chandelier in Europe. The stars of the show here are its residents – Prince Biagio Licata Baucina and his wife Princess Signoretta Alliata di Pietratagliata, who, while boasting outfits and opinions galore, show you around their home. These gracious nobles could easily have their own reality TV show, but for now, the only way to experience this slice of Italian aristocratic life is by appointment only. Groups of 20 or more can book through the website, but the Villa Igiea team can arrange much more intimate visits for their guests – our group numbered just four. |
As far as onsite activities go, aside from the pool which, while not huge, is the main event, there is a tennis court and a spa featuring products from Rocco’s daughter Irene Forte’s beauty brand. The hotel also organises boat excursions from its private mooring, but what we enjoyed most was the people-watching – discreetly, of course. Highlights included rubbing shoulders with a bodyguard-flanked member of the Italian government at reception and just generally hobnobbing with the sort of glossy, international families that glide effortlessly between languages and continents. The prime place to admire the scene is at Thursday evenings’ DJ and cocktails nights at the Terrazza Bar. Fans of HBO’s The White Lotus might recognise it from the show (and a word to the wise: this is definitely not a jeans-and-trainers type of place.
As per tradition in Sicily, the focus in terms of food is on simply and boldly showcasing the flavours of top-notch produce. We liked that breakfast offered both buffet and à la carte options, served, like most of the dining, outside on the terrace. Lunch at Alicetta, the upscale pool bar, featured homemade pizzas and focaccia, busiate pasta with local red Mazara del Vallo prawns. It was casual as far as well-heeled Italians do casual – undoubtedly smart casual to most people (but you can wear shorts). Dinner at Florio was an even more refined affair, albeit with a menu that runs from simple tomato and basil pasta to beef tartare with sea urchins.
The final word has to go to the service, which throughout the Villa Igiea was smiley, knowledgeable, discreet and helpfully opinionated when we asked for suggestions. Bonus points too for not switching to English when we attempted our ghastly Italian. Now that is service. Grazie mille!
Photography courtesy of Rocco Forte Hotels
