Essentially established as the ultimate go-to option for thermal tourism in Costa Rica, Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa ranks highly among the country’s most lauded hotels. But once you’ve done the hot springs and explored the area’s natural beauty, more wonders await back at the resort – from divine spa treatments to delicious dinners.
We knew we were at a thermal spa by the flushed tourists bundled up in robes. Rosy-cheeked visitors from Germany looking so relaxed they were almost unconscious spilled out onto the steeply winding road as a man in a hi-vis jacket waved us enthusiastically forward. At the gates, we spoke to a man in a booth and worked out we’d stopped just short. These were just the day pass people – we were hotel guests. A hundred or so feet further and we were there.
A vast, sprawling property, Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa is the original hot spring resort in La Fortuna. This is the venue that turns this quaint town in the northern highlands of Costa Rica into a tourism hot spot. There are 18 hot springs to explore, hot waterfalls cascading over rocks winding their way down the mountain, and steam rising in the shelter of the giant forest fronds. Whatever it is that’s baked into the human cortex that induces relaxation in warm waters is ramped up to maximum here. The water is heated by the Arenal volcano to 75-105 degrees Fahrenheit and packed with natural minerals. As you might imagine it’s a very popular spot and can get busy with day pass users – luckily, the Shangri La adults-only area is reserved for guests of the hotel.
Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa was developed in the 1990s by architect Jaime Mikowski, who shaped and tamed the springs and restored the flora to how it was before cattle ever grazed the land. Enveloped by the green and cooled off by the light rain showers, we felt like we were inside the beating heart of nature itself. We heard thousand different bird calls and saw plenty of pizotes, distinctive long-tailed members of the racoon family that hang out in gangs begging for treats.
At 105 rooms, it’s a heavyweight hotel and a local institution: everyone knows about Tabacon. We found it warm and welcoming with the assuredness of a well-oiled machine. There’s a real efficiency to this place which we enjoyed as a contrast to the charmingly ramshackle nature of other parts of Costa Rica.
| Perfect for | Fly into | Right on time |
| The Adventurer | SJO | GMT -6 |
| While you’re Out There |
| La Fortuna waterfall is a must-do. It’s not a great distance but packs a punch as you descend hundreds of steps to reach the bathing spot. For lunch, take a drive along around the lake and stop at any of the restaurants dotted about the road. They don’t look like much, but we had some of the best fish tacos this side of Mexico. |
Our spa treatment was a honey temptation. An 80-minute massage in an open-air cabana that practically liquified us, the treatment was everything we’d asked for and more.
The first night we dined down by the spa, the hum and burble of the falls providing a relaxing dinner soundtrack. The Ave restaurant offered Costa Rican favourites with a focus on seafood. Gigantic shrimp were a highlight.
The Toucanes restaurant was our favoured breakfast spot for the delicious local favourite gallo pinto. The Costa Rican Experience tasting menu was also excellent, from ceviche to grilled octopus. But if local specialities and seafood isn’t your thing, we also witnessed gargantuan hunks of beef being cooked in front of drooling guests who seemed very satisfied.
Between the thermals spa, pool and adventure excursions we spent very little time in our room apart from collapsing into a deep sleep each night, but the room was spacious and elegant with a huge free-standing bath and a view of the volcano. Our days at Tabacon were stuffed with activities, treatments and thermal time that left us pleasingly exhausted by 9pm, and our room was the perfect calming cocoon to leave us refreshed each morning.
Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa is not the hippest place on earth, and it’d be hard to be both the grand dame and the cool kid at the same time. But it’s established for a reason: there is simply nowhere better in Costa Rica to get the luxurious hot spring experience. We’d certainly call it a must-visit for any itinerary within this incredible country.
Photography courtesy of Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa
