It’s not every day travellers get to sleep amidst a working tea plantation, although a stay at One&Only Nyungwe House in Rwanda’s southern Gisakura region might just leave you wishing it was. Its tranquil setting aside, this upscale resort is soulful, serene and secluded – just what you’d want from ‘highlands gone high-end’.
Near the Burundi border and just south of the enormous Lake Kivu, you’ll find a rather extraordinary plot of land that’s home to One&Only Nyungwe House. The region was arguably the birthplace of Rwanda’s tea production, which began in the 1950s, and it has since benefited greatly from numerous highland plantations. It’s why any stay at the resort begins with a drive through lush plantations on each side of its nearly two-kilometre-long driveway – as well as with the property’s musicians and dancers, who performed while walking right in front of our vehicle, as we approached the hilltop hotel. A total of 22 suites spread across six villas that encircle the resort’s main building ensure guests either look out towards Rwanda’s pristine forests or in towards the plantation, where local tea pickers working on the hotel grounds return their look with a smile: whatever direction you turn your head, loveliness awaits.
On the day of our arrival, we decided to take a stroll around the property to explore all it had to offer: there’s the show-stopping infinity pool, framed by umbrella thorn trees behind which views of a plunging valley invite contemplation (while straw hats and neck pillows on the loungers encourage stylish relaxation). Passing private seating areas and swings amidst the tea leaves, we walked right up to the central part of the property – all black beams, chandeliers and wall-mounted African masks – where oversized, wooden board games sat next to a pair of massage chairs, readily available for complimentary fifteen-minute treatments. Meanwhile, a boma beck just beyond is where visitors congregate in the evenings to enjoy drinks and traditional dances around a log fire.
Back in our 44 sqm/473 sqft Canopy Treehouse, we were able to unwind whenever a day of adventures left us in need of some R&R. The accommodations at One&Only Nyungwe House are certainly cosy: we loved our bathtub, all set with luxurious bath salts and a scented candle, and hidden behind shutters that let us look out over our four-poster canopy bed, a fireplace and a small balcony just beyond. As we’ve come to expect from the luxury hospitality brand, they’ve ticked all the boxes on amenities discerning travellers would appreciate: backpacks to use during one’s stay, a superb minibar and a discreetly hidden tea and coffee station. From the wallpaper to a graphic rug and original artworks, influences of Rwandan Imigongo art are woven into every fabric of the accommodations – sometimes literally – leaving no doubt about the destination you’re in. Just an outdoor shower was missing to immerse all our senses in the local environment.
Luckily, a troop of L’hoest monkeys that live in the surrounding forests made up for this by offering immersion of another kind, observing us during lunch while cheekily helping themselves to our dessert in a sudden fruit grab that left us stunned – but not displeased (to the contrary, in fact, as we found the scene wonderfully wild and amusing!). The team kindly set up breakfast in a more shielded spot skirted by the resort’s herb garden the following day, and we savoured the many thoughtful touches, from kombucha made using the plantation’s tea leaves to jams inspired by One&Only properties from around the world.
Perfect for | Fly into | Right on time |
The Escapist | KGL | GMT +2 |
While you’re Out There |
Adventure awaits in the nearby Nyungwe Forest National Park, where the Igishigishigi Trail (named after a local tree) can be combined with a canopy walkway offering spectacular views of one of Africa’s most pristine rainforests from some sixty metres above the forest floor. Closer to the resort – and the ground – a guided trek along the Isumo Trail introduces guests to Rwanda’s diverse flora and fauna before culminating in an impressive waterfall deep in the jungle. |
As vegans, we felt well looked after both in the Tea Lounge, which serves all-day bites of the simple and healthy kind, as well as during evening-spanning multi-course meals in the Dining Room, where we feasted ‘family-style’ on everything from crispy marinated tofu goujons and truffle arancini to broccoli and cauliflower bakes with salsa verde. The staff, albeit clearly endeavouring to deliver immaculate service, had a curious tendency to mix up special dietary menus and drink orders in our group, though with this much effort having been put into catering to each guest’s dietaries – something that continues to be overlooked by many a five-star hotel and their executive chefs – we were more than happy to turn a blind eye.
For our wellness needs, we made our way to the resort’s spa, where the signature Intonga Amasatchi treatment uses locally inspired massage methods and wooden tools that not only promise ultimate relaxation but also a whiff of cultural immersion. The spa furthermore draws on the rich repertoire of the Africology brand, using its products and special treatments like Rwandan coffee and mint detox wraps. Post massage, you’d be well advised to unwind on what we thought was a downright stunning outdoor patio overlooking the forest. Guests who have previously stayed at the hotel’s sister property, One&Only Gorilla’s Nest, and enjoyed its state-of-the-art wellness amenities, will look for saunas and cold plunges in vain at Nyungwe House. That said, we hear that the property is looking to add similar facilities in the future, which will no doubt complement what’s already a wonderful spa.
It’d be hard not to draw a comparison between the two resorts, of course. Both properties had a life before joining the One&Only portfolio, and we found that Gorilla’s Nest has received the more elaborate makeover of the two, fully elevating it to the brand’s ultra-luxurious standards. Despite One&Only Nyungwe House feeling a little less luxe, however, it’s still a special property, even compared to many a hotel by competing brands in a similar price bracket – which stands testament to a level of excellence that was reflected first and foremost in the superb service standards we relished throughout our stay.
The only ‘flaw’ of the resort is that its remote location makes it not quite as convenient to reach as less adventurous travellers might hope: having driven up from Gorilla’s Nest, which took some seven hours on Rwanda’s winding roads, we were rather exhausted upon arrival and spent our first 24 hours on resort in a haze, wishing we’d factored in more time to recuperate from the journey. There are no gorillas in this part of the country and you’ll need a good reason to come here; fortunately, the hotel offers tea tastings and the nearby Nyungwe Forest National Park is certainly a beautiful place to go trekking. If you don’t need to rush it, One&Only Nyungwe House is well positioned – literally and figuratively – to give guests the gift of a memorable holiday. Just remember to bring enough time to make your stay worthwhile.
Steffen flew with RwandAir, which flies daily from London Heathrow to Kigali, and his journey was arranged with the help of Cheli & Peacock Safaris.
Photography courtesy of One&Only Resorts