Some hotels are simply crash pads, serving purely as a base to jump off to more interesting locales. And then there is the type of hotel that is a destination in and of itself. With its compelling history and access to strikingly beautiful scenery, Hotel Union Øye, a hideaway in rural Norway, is of the latter kind.
The arrival set the stage: we travelled by boat from Ålesund along the majestic Hjørundfjorden fjord, going past snow-topped mountains, jagged cliffs, caves and organic fish farms. As we proceeded, the snow crept lower down the mountains until Hotel Union Øye, a grand mansion, and an elegant wooden slice of the past with a touch of fairytale about it, came into view at the fjord’s end.
The property is in the town of Øye, which also happens to be the General Manager’s surname, your first clue that this is a very small town indeed. In fact, just 25 people live here, surely all of whom must be staff (though we’re told the village still swells to 40 inhabitants in summer). As you’d expect from a place this small and remote in a country of such dramatic beauty, the setting is truly breathtaking, with a rich history of visits from the great and good.
Established in 1891, Hotel Union Øye has hosted the likes of Kaiser Wilhelm II and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, and its history is palpable. The original wood-panelled walls, antique furniture, and small historical touches – each room is named after a famous guest – give a sense of lived-in grandeur. Indeed Kaiser Wilhelm loved the place so much that he had his bath from back home shipped here permanently, no less to the very room we stayed in, meaning we’re now proud to claim one degree of separation between the Kaiser’s buttocks and our own.
The hotel being historical like a big, snowbound time machine, it would be unrealistic to expect all the trappings of an ultra-modern, high-end address. There were no gyms and few indoor pools in 1900 and thus you’ll find neither here. Instead, your gym is the spectacular outdoors, and the pool is a fjord that’ll put hairs on your chest. Meanwhile, a sauna floating on a pontoon by the fjord with a view of the mountains is a spectacular treat, and we insist you go for a steam before diving into the icy waters… it’s a rare thrill and must be done for the full Nordic effect.
| Perfect for | Fly into | Right on time |
| The Culturalist | AES / HOV | GMT +2 |
| While you’re Out There |
| Whether by bike, kayak or helicopter the region’s fjords and mountains must be explored. Although less active visitors might want to book a polar dinner in an arctic ‘lavvu’, a traditional Norwegian tent, during which you’ll huddle around a crackling bonfire while you drink your hot ‘glogg’ (a spiced wine and liquor punch), overlooking one of the most beautiful valleys in all of Scandinavia. |
We’re not ones to sacrifice comfort for authenticity and were delighted to find that the hotel’s accommodations, of which there are only 38, offer both. The 15 rooms and 22 suites are thoughtfully updated, with comfy beds and heated floors in the bathrooms. You can use the freestanding bath or even light a cosy fire if you’re staying in a suite before falling asleep under a hand-stitched quilt to the sound of snow settling on the window. Bathroom amenities are by Penhaglion’s, a perfumer to the royals – all the benefits of a grander time.
We also enjoyed an excellent fine dining experience, steeped in candlelight in the conservatory. Dishes focussed on local, seasonal ingredients, many sourced directly from nearby farms or waters. The menu is set, a rotating ode to Norwegian tradition – reindeer tenderloin, crab salad, freshly caught cod. Wine pairings were excellent and the staff, most of whom have worked and lived here for years, or in some cases their whole lives, knew their stuff.
We experienced this deep knowledge with an evening of storytelling in the grand, old living room, where we sat with drinks in hand and learned all about the Hotel Union Øye’s many ghost stories. These storytelling sessions are a Norwegian tradition that is kept alive here each night after dinner.
For the more adventurous, this secluded hideaway is perfectly placed for outdoor activities. Hiking trails to the mighty Slogen Peak begin practically at the front door, while kayaking, fishing, or skiing in the winter can be easily arranged. Hotel Union Øye offers something valuable in today’s travel landscape: a place to disconnect from the noise of modern life and reconnect with nature, history, and a slower way of living. That, to us, makes it very much worth a visit.
Photography by Marøy & Klouda, Johanne Nyborg, Vaga Foto and courtesy of 62°Nord
