There are some grey areas, Toronto will naturally struggle to lay claim to its inhabitants’ individual ethnic cooking, but it does tend to claim the whimsical food it invented and the evolution of its traditional, global fayre. Torontonians will tell you point-blank that sushi-pizza is a local staple, as is Kraft-dinner (macaroni and cheese, but it has to be Kraft) and, as crazy as both may sound, they’re further examples of Toronto’s diversity at work. The city’s population is also heavily into the ‘local food movement’, craving locally sourced, seasonal food.
Their other culinary interest that really stands out is a love of fish. Both of these are distinctly and historically Torontonian – it is said that the meaning of the city’s name is derived from the Wyandot (native North American) way of saying a “place for gathering food”, particularly fish. The city was founded on very fertile land, carved out by glaciers, and the original settlement of Toronto was defined by Lake Ontario, the rivers Humber and Don – rich in fish, game and natural flora. Hunting and foraging, followed by a vibrant agricultural industry, meant that the locals always benefited from the bountiful opportunities for food production. So it’s no wonder that fresh, local produce and ingredients are musts, it’s ingrained into the psyche.
What I’m trying to say is that Toronto’s relationship with food defines its cuisine far more than the actual food itself. It’s progressive and forward-thinking, wholly open-minded and inherently social. From the minute you land at the airport (itself a foodie mecca), you’ll feel it. Lunches for workers during the week are wholesome and people really take the time to lunch out with colleagues. At weekends, brunch is more of a religion than a mere meal – albeit also an excuse to drink the city’s plethora of craft beers, home-made bitters and house-infused spirits. For kicks, locals will happily window-shop restaurants, speciality food stores and fresh-produce markets. Café culture is still thriving and generally independent or small chain. Even the local government produces specific studies and strategies on how food plays vital roles in building happy people and healthy cities. Most importantly, they found that food plays a crucial part in bringing people together for conversations, sharing in cultures and creating opportunities to understand each other’s heritage – as art and eating combined. And there we are, back to the very core of the city’s spirit, its diversity.
It seems that in Toronto, food is also worthy of political action. It makes absolute sense if you think about it – if it’s true what they say, that we are what we eat, then we do it as a symbol of who we are, not just for ourselves but for others around us. Food gives us an identity and defines our freedoms – we can eat what we like, when we like and with who we choose. We share in its stories and get to enjoy and understand the life experiences of others. I’ve clearly overused this notion of diversity in Toronto, but I want to draw attention to what it really means – discovering new experiences, shedding your blinkers, getting to know what it’s like to walk in the shoes of others and finding the things you didn’t even realise you would, in a million years, like.
Toronto is a place that harvests benefits from its multiculturalism, by hitting all the senses. The city is a space that rewards its people and visitors with new experiences – sometimes familiar, other times completely alien – in a mixed up, but simply delicious, not to mention whimsical, colourful and welcoming way. They say a way to a man’s heart is through his stomach… Toronto certainly has mine.
For everything you need to know about the big T.O., visit the city’s website at www.seetorontonow.com.
Photography courtesy of Kensington Market and by Martin Perry
Get out there
Do…
… seek out the city’s Chinatown, if you’re a sucker for Asian food (and quite frankly, who isn’t?). Toronto has three. My favourite is on Spadina Avenue.
… check out the culinary night-markets throughout the city during the summer – dates vary, but it’s guaranteed happy tastebuds all round.
… remember fresh and raw are Toronto foodie buzzwords, but writhing? Very, very freshly prepared lobster is the specialty at JaBistro.
Don’t…
… forget the city is obsessed with pickling and preserving, and it makes great souvenirs. Look out for Manning Canning on your travels.
… miss out on reliving that fun cocktail-fueled night out at Geraldine or the Toronto Temperence Society. BYOB is an amazing store for the wannabe mixologist.
… sleep on dropping into Fabarnak, at the 519 Church Community Centre (if you can get a table). You’ll find yourself at Church and Wellesly at least once, anyway.
