To call our accommodation at Amangiri a tent would be like describing James Bond’s Aston Martin DB5 simply as a sports car. Yes, it had a canvas roof and sat in the great outdoors, but that’s where the similarities ended. Across its internal footprint of just under 93 sqm/1,000 sqft, our ‘tent’ had all the creature comforts Dr. No himself would require.
Pushing open a sturdy wooden front door revealed our accommodation’s large living space: across the polished concrete floor, we found a 6-seater wooden dining table, a comfortable lounge and two large wall units concealing a minibar, coffee station and fridge. The far side of the room was glass with sliding doors that opened up to another comfortable 2-seater sofa and a plunge pool, gently emanating steam, the perfect spot to relax and meditate at the wonder of the 30-metre/100-foot tall sandstone formations just beyond. To the right, a flagstone path led around the corner to our own gas-powered fire pit with four camping chairs. Behind us, under the canvas roof which overhung the sturdy structure, a designer hammock invited us to relax further.
Back inside, the living space led into a large bedroom with a freestanding king-sized bed on a luxuriously thick, hand-woven rug. At the foot of the bed, under a designer lamp, sat a chic modernist wooden and leather armchair while a minimalist, wooden ceiling fan perfectly completed the look. It was clear to us that every little detail had been considered and executed to perfection. Running along the length of the back of the headboard was a study desk, power outlets including USB ports and inside, we found a remote which operated the black-out blinds. A large bathroom beyond featured one of the most beautiful bathtubs we’ve had the opportunity of slipping into: placed in the window, it offered a perfect natural view to contemplate while we soaked. Behind a wall were two large rain showers, one inside and the other out, separated by a sliding glass door. Meanwhile, a high-tech Japanese toilet was tucked away behind a long two-person sink. No chemical loos to empty here.
This impeccably presented under-canvas suite is one of 8 one-bedroom, and 2 two-bedroom ‘tented pavilions’ at Camp Sarika. Each is set in their own secluded spot providing complete privacy and awe-inspiring backdrops depending on the direction they face. You can either have one looking towards an imposing rock escarpment or one looking across an everlasting cinematic scene against which dramatic sunsets play out before the night draws in to reveal spectacular night skies bursting with stars. We loved the sense of seclusion and drama that being set beneath the enormous rock face gave us.
Along with the pavilions, the camp has its own restaurant and swimming pool, forming a satellite ‘wing’ of the uber-cool Amangiri resort set on 920 acres within Canyon Point, Utah, just north of the border with Arizona. Many who know and love the brand claim this as their favourite Aman property and it was clear to us why. The exquisite design is enough to have you reaching for your phone to book an interior designer to remodel your home in an equally effortless way. But it’s not just the decor that makes the resort sing; the architects Rick Joy, Marwan Al-Sayed and Wendell Burnette have taken every opportunity to visually integrate their minimalist scheme into the epic, rugged landscape, cleverly employing straight lines, perspective and angles to draw your attention back to the landscape at every opportunity.
| Perfect for | Fly into | Right on time |
| The Escapist | PHX, then connect to PGA | GMT -7 |
| While you’re Out There |
| The rather confusingly named Lake Powell is just a 15-minute drive from the gates of Amangiri. This gargantuan reservoir, the second largest in terms of water volume in the United States, is actually a canyon, dammed in the late 1950s. Today it is a major vacation spot, mainly for people renting large houseboats, and offers a wide range of water sports activities from jet skiing to fishing and, in the warmer months, swimming. We spent the morning exploring just a fraction of the 2,000-mile network of canyons onboard a 37-foot Axopar vessel operated by Up Lake Adventures with the informative and congenial Captain Bob Reed whose company also offers off-road adventures. |
We loved how the two 25m-long corridors, which bookended the main restaurant, had been designed to perfectly frame the view of a cinema screen proportioned 15 by 10 feet. The minimalist geometric buildings were built using concrete made from stone taken directly from the land on which they stand, resulting in a harmonious integration of the buildings into the landscape, which makes them look as if they had simply risen from the ground, or been carved by laser by some visiting advanced civilisation – a fitting setting for even the most discerning and elusive Bond villain. The main swimming pool, for example, which is built around a large rock formation, seems to melt into its surroundings, especially when purifying smoke of burning sage is pumped out across its surface. Quite simply (and simplicity is king here), the design of Amangiri hits all the right notes.
But any stay here goes far beyond just impressive design. The Amangiri team have put together a menu of experiences to deepen the connection to the area and to the Navajo people who are its custodians, and allow for immersion into what the landscape offers. These include hot-air balloon rides, horseback riding, rock climbing, guided star gazing and luxury boat cruises on nearby Lake Powell. For the less adventurous or physically able, there are stargazing-infused private dining experiences, talks from expert geologists (this is, after all, a geologist’s dream destination) and live music provided by local musicians. We especially enjoyed the spectacular demonstration of Navajo ‘hoop dancing’ by Red Heritage, who generously took the time to inform us about local customs and their deeply spiritual relationship to the land while emphasising the importance of continuing their traditions.
Complementing the many activities on offer is Amangiri’s spa. We took a day out from exploring to slow things down and immerse ourselves in a day of physical reconnection, starting with a guided myofascial stretching session during which we worked out the tension across our body. We then followed this up with a beautiful crystal sound bath. An unhurried wallow in the spa’s pool and we were ready for an hour-long massage, by the end of which we were practically floating. Another sensorial highlight of the trip was of course the food. The kitchen at Amangiri has an emphasis on healthy, flavoursome food, made with quality, organic ingredients. Despite the remote location there seemed to be no limit to the range of foods on offer and every dish we tried was just excellent. Due to the strict rules relating to alcohol within the state of Utah, alcohol is not served unless accompanied by food, and all alcohol has to be purchased via State-approved sellers. That said, there was no shortage of quality wine and the highly skilled bar staff excelled in creating equally delicious alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails.
Even as seasoned luxury travellers, we were blown away by Amangiri. OutThere doesn’t do hotel ratings, but if we did, they would read as ‘tens across the board’. Despite being open since 2009, there are still bragging rights associated with staying here. Perhaps that’s due to the resort’s remote location which may put off some less adventurous travellers. We found the journey, which involved a flight to Phoenix and then a short hop on a small plane to Flagstaff followed by a 2.5-hour drive, to be more than worth the effort. We traversed some of the most incredible landscapes the United States have to offer, witnessing this part of the country’s unique geology. Alternatively, you can fly via Phoenix to the local airport in Page, just a 25-minute drive from the resort. Or, if you just so happen to be James Bond, a helicopter is of course always an option.
Luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent can organise tailor-made trips across Utah and the USA with personalised VIP service and stays at Amangiri.
Photography courtesy of Aman Resorts
