Home to Europe’s largest year-round skiable glacier, France’s Les Deux Alpes has one of the most adrenaline-dripping summer sports and leisure offers in the Alps. Bagging himself a front-row seat for the legendary Mountain of Hell bike race, Sam Bradley investigates what else is on the menu.
The road winds higher and higher into the French Alps, climbing past numerous forests, meadows, and meandering rivers. I’m en route to the adventure paradise Les Deux Alpes, known for its all-seasons adrenaline sports, and I’ll be there to witness the biggest spectacle of the summer, the famed Mountain of Hell bike race. Starting on an icy glacier at an altitude of 3,200m/10,500ft, more than 900 brave mountain bikers race 25km (descending a whopping 2,300m/7,500ft in the process) through Les Deux Alpes. Arriving in the picturesque old village centre, I instantly know I’m in the right place, finding its streets and cafés sprinkled with enthusiasts all kitted out in full helmets and crash vests. The race is still two mornings away though, leaving plenty of time for competitors to test out the routes – and for me to sample some of the other thrilling pursuits on offer.
One of these attractions is rather unusual for mid-summer: skiing. Les Deux Alpes’ glacier is the largest skiable glacier in Europe and is used by many international teams for summer training. Climate change is having a noticeable effect though, with skiing only possible for less than two months the summer I visit. I’m concerned I’ll be adding to the problem, but I feel reassured to learn from my guide Philip that skiing actually compacts the ice and helps conserve it. Needing no further encouragement, I’m soon fully dressed in jackets and thermals (a strange experience in 30-degree sunny weather) and ready to catch the Jandri Express gondola. On our ride up we’re surrounded by sights of the new gondola system being built. Costing €90m and due for completion in early 2025, the new gondola cabins will each carry 32 people as opposed to the current 15. It will also cut travel time to 17 minutes (from the current 32) and greatly increase capacity – much needed to help droves of enthusiastic winter skiers access the resort’s more than 220km/135 miles of slopes.
Arriving at 3,400m/11,150ft, we’re soon on the slopes, Philip enjoying the sport he loves and me making the most of this unexpectedly wintery scene. Because the glacier faces west it avoids direct sunlight until noon and so is ideal for morning skiing (the slopes are closed at 12:30pm each day). At 110 hectares, the glacier is large enough for some decent runs (about 2km/1.25 miles in length) and has enough gentle slopes for all levels of skiing. Les Deux Alpes is in fact often referred to as an ‘upside down’ resort, as the lower slopes are steeper and more challenging than the higher areas. There are panoramic views towards Mont Blanc, and we’re even lucky enough to see two wild chamois, small goat-like animals, playfully chasing each other through the snow.
Back at the base camp village, my quest for adventure continues, this time taking me higher still. Leonardo da Vinci said, ‘Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the Earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.’ Even though he lived too early to experience paragliding, he knew what he was talking about. The Alps boast some amazing flying conditions, and I couldn’t wait to get into the air, courtesy of the Deux Alpes Parapente dream team, run by pilot Xavier Dauboin and his daughter India (helper, photographer and chief cheerleader for first-time fliers). Takeoff is always the scary part, involving bravely charging off a mountain drop, but soon Xavier and I are gracefully soaring through the air, enjoying the weightless sensation as well as spectacular views of distant mountain peaks and waterfalls. With the whole sky as your personal playground, the experience is one of those ‘top of the world’ moments that are hard to forget.
“The accommodation is basic, but therein lies the appeal – it’s so remote supplies are flown in monthly by helicopter, and there’s no phone reception or even showers (the river is right outside)”
During summer, warm updrafts from the valleys below mean flights can end at the same spot as takeoff (as opposed to in winter, when fliers land in the village of Venosc in the valley below) and so we can touch down with a soft bump in the same grassy meadow used for takeoff, to be met with cheers and smiles from India.
A host of activities are available in Les Deux Alpes – I counted 40 on the tourism board’s website – but relaxation and indulgence are also encouraged, even if, with a few standout exceptions, the resort’s leisure offer is typically focused on mass-market value for money rather than hospitality of distinction. The streets bristle with charming cafés, bakeries and restaurants, with options including seafood, vegetarian and even Mexican fare, ranging from simple pasta takeaways to Michelin-starred fine dining. Despite all the choices it only takes one meal at Le Raisin d’Ours, an unflashy, family-run restaurant serving classic French favourites in generous portions, to steal my affection. My dessert of giant profiteroles, slathered in chocolate, cream and ice cream, seals the deal.
I head too to Écrins National Park, just down the valley. Technically the park, France’s second-largest, a huge expanse of flowery meadows, gushing waterfalls and mountain pastures, actually covers seven valleys. My guide Fabrice knows its trails like the back of his hand, and we spend the morning ambling through indescribably gorgeous scenery, stopping off at rivers and waterfalls for water refill breaks. Along the way I trust my life to Fabrice as, at his urging, I taste edible fern (a bit like liquorice), wild spinach, rhubarb and even stinging nettles – thankfully with the sting removed.
Such snacks though are no match for the appetite hiking this hard whips up, and by lunchtime I’m famished. Fabrice leads the way to Refuge de la Lavey, a remote refuge (originally a shepherd’s stone cottage, with origins dating back to 1797) which is surrounded by nothing but river, sky and mountains. It contains three large dormitories, in total sleeping 45 people, and it’s fully booked for almost the whole summer. The accommodation is basic, but therein lies the appeal – it’s so remote supplies are flown in monthly by helicopter, and there’s no phone reception or even showers (the river is right outside).
Instead, there are any number of hiking and climbing trails, and for company, there’s a steady stream of friendly guests, many marmots (large squirrel-like creatures) and even a family of wolves living in the reserve. Camille (with his partner and baby daughter) is working at the refuge for the summer, and it isn’t long before he’s whipped up a delicious lunch of buckwheat pancakes, or galettes de sarrasin. The toppings are as wholesome as you’d expect in a setting like this and include walnuts, herbs, vegetables and speck, although I indulge myself with a hazelnut chocolate pancake for dessert. After lunch, as we leave the national park, I spot a site for white-water rafting before we drive through the quaint village of Venosc – two more reasons, I daydream, that I’d like to return soon.
Saturday dawns… the day before the race. For the competitors, this is also qualification day, with each racer completing a short-timed course to determine their starting position. To get into the spirit I do some mountain biking of my own, guided by local legend Antoine from Trailhunter MTB. Antoine is passionate about the Mountain of Hell, and his job on race day is to guide junior riders through the course to give them the best chance of emerging unscathed. I’m kitted out in protective gear and riding an e-bike (a first for me), desperately trying to remember Antoine’s instructions on when to use each of its four modes. Much maligned when they first appeared, e-bikes are now gaining acceptance as a way to enjoy more of the mountains than would otherwise be possible, and on uphill stretches, mine feels a little like a nippy sports car.
“Over dinner, I chat to Adrien Loron, a world-class French downhill racer and BMXer who lives in Les Deux Alpes and designs the trails. I’m expecting many macho stories, but instead, he does a great job of making the race seem possible for mere mortals like myself”
The area surrounding the village has over 100km of bike trails with a good mix of routes from green (beginner) to black (expert) routes. We stick mainly to the blue tracks, easy combinations of gently curving berms, wide switchbacks and a few small jumps. Like other ski resorts expanding their summer offerings, Les Deux Alpes has developed its biking facilities admirably over the last few years, with, lifts adapted for mountain bikes, trails clearly marked and well-maintained wash stations at the bottom of most of the gondolas. One of our routes is through a meadow blocked by cows and a bull who is clearly not going to move, so Antoine finds us another trail through a beautiful forest. We stop for more breaks than we need (the e-bike today makes fatigue a choice, not a necessity) just to revel in the views, balmy weather and fresh mountain air. It’s still a workout though and the routes are still technically challenging, but we’re able to tackle far more of them than on just our own steam.
That evening the excitement in the village is palpable. A ceremony is held in the square to announce the qualification winners, and most competitors stick around for a drink. More than 20 nationalities are represented, and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly with most of the racers here for the camaraderie rather than the prize money (a modest €1,000 for first place). Over dinner, I chat to Adrien Loron, a world-class French downhill racer and BMXer who lives in Les Deux Alpes and designs the trails. I’m expecting many macho stories, but instead, he does a great job of making the race seem possible for mere mortals like myself. I’m surprised to learn only about 100 riders will tackle the black route, with the large majority sticking to the slower but safer red course. I’m also encouraged to discover the race got its name from the infamously bad weather (thunderstorms and snow are common this high up in the mountains, even in summer) rather than the dangers of the race. The ‘hardcore’ marketing could do with some softening though, as the gender ratio is definitely skewed, with fewer than 20 female racers registered to ride. My last question for Adrien is how he conquers the glacier stretch at the start of the race. His answer is memorable – “Let go of the brakes and try to survive.”
After all the build-up, the race itself is pretty short-lived. It’s an early start for the racers as they catch the gondola to the starting point, and at 9am, they’re lined up and ready for action (the e-bike race runs separately not long afterwards). Adrenalinising music is pumping over the loudspeakers, the helicopter camera crew is circling overhead, and with a loud siren, the race commences. The leaders tear down the icy slope, and in less than 23 minutes French MTB star Kilian Bron will be down in the village of Venosc celebrating his win. Thankfully most competitors are more prudent, with finishing times of about 60 minutes the norm. In total 608 racers (from 751 starters) complete the route, including Adrien – although a puncture close to the start means he is disappointed to finish in 47th place. Equally exhausted and exhilarated, most of the riders spend the rest of the day enjoying a well-earned drink and sharing saddle-fresh new Mountain of Hell memories.
Aristotle said ‘adventure is worthwhile,’ and, looking back on the past few magical days, I’m inclined to agree. I’ve pushed myself out of my comfort zone, tried several new sports, discovered ruggedly beautiful landscapes and met some incredibly interesting people. I’m sore, I’m stiff and my muscles ache. And I wouldn’t change a thing.
Photography by Pyrene Duffau, Luka Leroy and courtesy of Les Deux Alpes Tourist Office
