Soneva Fushi, in the azure expanse of the Indian Ocean, is a paradisiacal playground that has, for over 25 years, remained one of the defining pillars of luxury in the Maldives. Ask any of its regulars (some of whom, as we discovered, count over ten visits to the island) what the secret of its success is, and they will tell you that beneath the resort’s barefoot escapism and eco-conscious ethos lies something far deeper and infinitely captivating. Soneva Fushi is an enduring lesson in what luxury should be – not just about indulgence but also authenticity, sustainability and the kind of immersive holiday that recalibrates the soul.
There are very fashionable properties in the Maldives, without a doubt. But while their popularity comes and goes with the shifting tides, Soneva Fushi remains as captivating as it was when it first opened in 1995. It has become a rare thing in the world of luxury travel: a place that has kept its sense of purpose intact while evolving and innovating with panache and sensitivity to the changing times. Of course, its longevity can be attributed to the staggering beauty of its location in the Indian Ocean, but also to its visionary commitment to barefoot luxury – a term you could say it coined – and its unwavering devotion to sustainability, long before it became a buzzword. “No shoes, no news” has become somewhat of a market-defining war cry for Soneva, but we were reminded that we were right where it was first invented. Today, with surprisingly strong mobile phone signals and easily accessible WiFi, the latter is harder to avoid, but we can tell you we soon got very used to the feeling of sand between our toes at all times.
Soneva Fushi occupies the sugar-snap-shaped private island of Kunfunadhoo in the Baa Atoll, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Its location, far from other islands, yet only 30 minutes by seaplane from Velana International Airport, offers a unique sense of remoteness and tranquillity. This natural seclusion allows guests to achieve a deeper connection with nature and with those lucky enough to check in alongside them.
The beach at Soneva Fushi is untouched and (almost) wild, flanked by towering palms, powdery sand and a calming soundtrack of waves breaking against the shore. Unlike many of the new, glitzy resorts in the Maldives, which sometimes feel manufactured, Soneva is much more raw in its natural beauty and landscaping, which brings an air of casual unpretentiousness. We felt a real sense of discovery when we stepped onto the island, as though we had stumbled upon something untouched. Don’t get us wrong, though – we’re not suggesting that Soneva Fushi is a desert island or campsite in any way, shape or form – the resort still offers indisputable, world-class luxury and service. But it doesn’t rely solely on excess to define its appeal. Instead, the hotel builds its luxury from the ground up, through genuine, thoughtful experiences, impeccable service and a deep, unspoken connection with the island and the environment. However, it may at first underwhelm OutThere travellers who prefer the more apparent and contemporary lavishness and five-star extravagance of other places to stay in the Maldives.
The resort’s design celebrates its island’s inherent beauty, a marriage of rustic charm and barefoot luxury that feels perfectly in tune with the surroundings. Sandy lanes and wooden walkways wind through the island’s lush jungle, and thatched roofs rise from dense thickets like secret hideaways, connecting the resort’s wooden villas, each one a sanctuary in its own right, nestled among the trees or perched on the sand by the beach. Accommodation on the island mostly comprises beach houses and villas. There are just a handful of newer, premium Water Reserves (overwater villas) here, to the far east of the island, similar to the ones found at its sister resort Soneva Jani, perhaps to keep up with the Joneses and to attract those who simply must be over the water on their first Maldivian holiday.
Our beach villa was full of castaway charm, sculpted from nature and woven seamlessly into the island’s lush embrace. Staying here felt instinctive and organic, and we liked how the villas seemed almost etched into the island rather than imposed upon it.
When we pushed open the huge, double-height wooden door, we revealed open-plan interiors bathed in golden sunlight and colourful accents. The air was tinged with the scent of salt and frangipani, while the sound of the soft flushing of the tide drifted through. We loved how the line between indoors and outdoors blurred. Our bedroom and bathroom, found up a set of creaky wooden stairs, spilled onto a private balcony where we enjoyed our morning coffee to the whisper of the sea breeze. Back downstairs, an open-air dining area led to a private pool and garden (complete with stepping-stone outdoor shower), set beneath swaying palms, with a little path leading us to the powdery white beach and impossibly azure, open sea.
Here, we felt truly rooted to the island, with each day of our stay unfolding with a sense of ease. By night, as the candlelight flickered against timber beams and the symphony of the jungle rose, there was a sense of returning to something elemental. Staying in a beach villa at Soneva Fushi offers unfiltered escapism – a feeling that no overwater bungalow, however spectacular, can quite replicate. While the Maldives has become synonymous with floating sanctuaries of glass and infinity-edge perfection, there is something irreplaceable about stepping straight from your villa into the dappled shade of coconut palms, toes sinking into powdery sand, before wading into the crystalline shallows.
| Perfect for | Fly into | Right on time |
| The Adventurer | MLE | GMT +5 |
| While you’re Out There |
| Drifting weightlessly in the aquamarine expanse of the Baa Atoll, you’ll find yourself in the presence of something utterly mesmerising – a ballet of manta rays, their vast, wing-like fins gliding through the water with hypnotic grace. Here, at Hanifaru Bay, one of the world’s most extraordinary marine sanctuaries, these gentle giants gather in astonishing numbers during the plankton-rich months, creating a spectacle that feels almost otherworldly. Swimming alongside mantas is an immersive, almost meditative experience: their slow, deliberate movements pull you into a tranquil rhythm, a rare moment where time and breath sync perfectly with nature. Book immediately on arriving, at Soneva Fushi’s activity shack. |
One of the most striking features of Soneva Fushi is its commitment to sustainability, which permeates every aspect of the resort. Its owners, Sonu and Eva (get the name yet?) Malmström-Shivdasani were pioneers in eco-luxury long before the term had even entered the popular lexicon. Solar panels, responsibly sourced building materials, embellishments made from recycled materials and driftwood, waste management and water conservation are all part of the island’s DNA. Throughout the resort, we found composting toilets, a glass recycling facility and even a coconut oil factory to provide fuel for the ubiquitous lamps that light the paths in the evening. Leading these efforts are three division leaders: one focuses on reducing the impact of tourism on the island, another on reusing as much as possible – particularly when it comes to food and amenities – and the third solely on recycling.
But beyond the responsible infrastructure lies a profound sense of stewardship towards the natural world. Take, for example, the resort’s commitment to marine conservation. As part of the Baa Atoll Biosphere Reserve, Soneva Fushi plays a significant role in protecting the area’s coral reefs and marine life. The resort is actively involved in initiatives such as coral planting and the protection of endangered marine species. Guests can experience these efforts firsthand, whether by joining an eco-tour led by marine biologists or simply snorkelling in the crystal-clear waters, knowing that their stay is contributing to the greater good.
But sustainability here isn’t just about protecting the environment. It’s also about enhancing the lives of the local community. Soneva Fushi’s commitment to local produce and artisan crafts fosters a symbiotic relationship with the nearby communities. As much as possible, fresh fruit, vegetables and seafood come directly from local islands, and the resort’s various dining outlets celebrate the richness of Maldivian and regional flavours. The resort also works closely with local artisans to create unique pieces of artwork for its guests – often from upcycled materials found as waste around its neighbouring islands – adding another layer of depth to the experience. It’s this sort of ‘luxury with purpose’, a balance of indulgence and responsibility, which sets the hotel apart from many of its counterparts.
Another particularly intriguing feature of Soneva Fushi is its ever-evolving approach to wellness, integral to the entire guest experience. Perhaps it is even its greatest strength: making the island not just a sanctuary for the body, but for the spirit. The resort’s spa, Soneva Soul, offers a holistic approach to well-being, drawing from both ancient healing practices and cutting-edge treatments. From Ayurveda and traditional Maldivian therapies to biohacking and sound healing, there’s a focus on the long-term health benefits of wellness, rather than quick fixes. This is a space where you can spend days dedicated to your own self-renewal.
And, of course, there’s the dining, where Soneva Fushi continues to innovate. While its gastronomic offerings have always been a solid feature, recent additions to the dining scene have elevated it. The resort now offers an expanded focus on plant-based cuisine, with Fresh in the Garden, an immersive dining experience set within a treehouse-like environment in the resort’s organic garden, showcasing local, sustainable produce in the most creative of ways. It offers a refreshing take on gourmet dining, tapping into the roots of what makes a dish truly special: its provenance. Plus, the setting is utterly romantic, connected by a platformed bridge with everything lit by the dancing flames of oil lamps. Adjacent to this is the resort’s observatory, a perfect way to end the meal. It’s a real star attraction, no pun intended, with knowledgeable ‘astronomers’ on hand who took us through the constellations and planets in telescopic detail.
There are also regular pop-ups with star-studded chefs in residence, but the focus is always on organic cooking. We preferred the Japanese cuisine here at Fushi over that at Soneva Jani as well – much more innovative and lovingly prepared.
Meanwhile, the Village Breakfast at Soneva Fushi is not a typical resort buffet. Right on the beachfront under the palms, we spent unhurried mornings here on wooden tables shaded by tropical greenery. The atmosphere is refreshingly informal, the pace is deliberately slow and while all the trimmings of a lavish international breakfast are on offer, the focus is on simple, soulful food made with care – earthy clay pots brimming with Maldivian curries, delicate mas huni (a fragrant mix of tuna, coconut and chilli) served with warm roti and tropical fruits (look out for the village fruit butcher). What makes breakfast particularly special, however, is how it connects guests to the island, its people, and each other. Local chefs prepare dishes over open flames, their laughter and easy conversation filling the air. Guests are encouraged to meet others staying at the resort, which adds to the conviviality of the experience. There is very much a village charm to the whole resort, with roads between villas and facilities full of hustle and bustle, and a friendly, smiling member of staff or fellow guests always ready to engage and ask about your day.
It isn’t easy to last a quarter of a century and remain relevant. What we feel makes Soneva Fushi endure is its ability to stay authentic to its core mission and the intentionality behind its every offering. Of course, you’d have to expect that after 25 years, there are some things that Soneva Fushi cannot do, that other, more contemporary resorts can. Service and approach can sometimes feel rather retro – ‘Fantasy Island/White Lotus’ style, even – not stuffy by any means, but perhaps a little old-school. What makes its most loyal guests return though, is how the resort stays unapologetically rooted in its values, from luxury and sustainability to simplicity and connection, allowing holidaymakers to be the curators of their own versions of paradise. And that, perhaps, is the greatest luxury of all.
Photography courtesy of Soneva
At OutThere, we believe in boundless travel. But we understand that some destinations can pose challenges to travellers that complicate visiting them. We advise all visitors to inform themselves about local legislation and customs, and to work with a trusted travel provider in order to ensure a safe and pleasant holiday.
