For more than a century, the village of Engelberg in Central Switzerland has been a holiday destination. Originally opened in 1890 as a summer spa, Kempinski Palace Engelberg recently completed a five-year restoration project and reopened in 2021 as the only five-star superior hotel in Central Switzerland. The hotel’s grand new entrance portico leads into a spectacular lobby that seamlessly fuses the original six-story Belle Epoque structure with its contemporary addition.
Spellbound, we stood on our balcony at Kempinski Palace Engelberg, mesmerized by the snow-capped Swiss Alps. Dripping in white like big rock candy mountains flecked with sugar confectionery trees, the Alps encircled us like an ancient amphitheatre. High above was the peak of Mount Titlis where the EU’s highest elevation suspension bridge awaited our arrival. But first, there was lunch.
Named in honour of Engelberg’s illustrious 19th-century hotelier, the hotel’s Cattani Restaurant features a contemporary double-height dining room with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the adjoining park. Nearly every table offers a Swiss mountain vista, and the restaurant’s glistening icicle chandelier replicates the shape of Mount Titlis. Dietary preferences are honoured, and the hotel menus list various allergens and vegan options to ensure the well-being of all guests. Buffet breakfasts, too, include Asian and plant-based options amidst regional Swiss specialities such as rösti and buckwheat crepes with wild mushrooms.
At 3,238 m/10,623 ft, Mount Titlis is the highest summit in the area, notable for the world’s first rotating cable car (though the vertiginous lift is not for the faint of heart). We rose above the clouds in a nearly-vertical ascent. Once we arrived at the summit, we followed our guide into a glacier cave and emerged onto a brilliant white plateau marked by a gigantic snow pyramid. We were high on an expansive snow desert, well above the clouds and the lesser mountain peaks.
Designed as a centennial celebration of Mount Titlis’ funicular railway, the Titlis Cliff Walk is suspended at 3,000 m/9,800 ft above sea level. While the bridge can withstand winds that reach over 190 km as well as tons of snowfall, the 100 m/320 ft steel cable bridge does sway and swing above the 502 m/1,650 ft chasm below. You have been warned.
Back on terra firma, we headed for hydrotherapy at the indoor infinity pool atop Kempinski Palace Engelberg. Treatments at the hotel’s rooftop spa include hot stone and aromatic candle massages, as well as golden electrode facials. As the mountains flickered in twilight, we soaked in the healing waters and sweated in the bio sauna. In the spa’s Alpine lounge, we sipped cinnamon plum tea in the glow of the salt-stone fireplace.
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| The Culturalist | ZRH / BXO | GMT +1 |
| While you’re Out There |
| Nestled in the foothills of the Swiss Alps, high above the village of Engelberg, Villa Hundert was created by two Nordics and a Canadian, all three of whom exude infectious charisma as they host guests at their mountain hideaway. The Villa’s eight-course tasting menu with wine pairing is a brilliantly executed canvas of locally sourced and sustainable Swiss seasonal produce. During the three-hour dinner, we dined on shiitake with pickled seeds, pike perch and kale, sea buckthorn and pumpkin, and celeriac with wild strawberries. Perhaps needless to say, everyone at our table devoured every last morsel. There was an ongoing effervescence about the evening, and by meal’s end, we felt as if we were a part of Villa Hundert’s extended family. A member of Slow Food and Slow Down Hotels, Villa Hundert is a splendid example of Swiss hygge and hospitality. |
Fondue is an integral part of the Alpine lifestyle and is particularly appealing after a day on the slopes. At Kempinski Palace Engelberg, the parkside Chalet Ruinart replicates the allure of an Alpine chalet, complete with warm furs and blankets, and plenty of Ruinart champagne. Apart from the classic Swiss fondue, various fondue options include organic vegan fondue (made from organic cashew nuts), Asian fondue, and a truffle and champagne fondue, all served with bread, potatoes, and pickled vegetables. Fondue fosters conviviality, and at Chalet Ruinart, there’s a relaxed familial atmosphere that carries through to the chocolate mousse at any meal’s end. For those who enjoy a post-prandial cigar, Habanos Cigar Lounge evokes the atmosphere of a London gentlemen’s club.
The rooms and suites at Kempinski Palace Engelberg function as urbane Alpine retreats, complete with parquet wood flooring, brushed oak wood finishes, wool upholstery, and caramel brown leather appointments. Junior suites feature parkside balconies and a separate living area. Seated at our sleek and stylish desk, we felt as if we could write our magnum opus, while our fully-furnished balcony overlooked the park and bandshell beyond, making it perfect for al fresco breakfasts in clement weather. The hotel’s various named suites include a private bar with a modern interior design while the top floor Titlis Suite functions as a private aerie with panoramic views.
Turndown service includes water and hand cream, and there’s even an alarm clock that we found easy to master. Beds at Kempinski Palace Engelberg are manufactured by the Swiss company Elite, and as we sank into slumber, it was easy to imagine we were sleeping in the clouds previously glimpsed from atop Mount Titlis. As for the bathrooms, they function as a private wellness sanctuary, complete with a soaking tub and rainforest shower.
Throughout the village of Engelberg, there’s a sense of calm and serenity due in large part to the presence of the 900-year-old Benedictine monastery at the town’s centre. Founded in 1122, the monastery has maintained its adherence to stillness and reflection in the face of modern life. Similarly, there’s a pleasing serenity within Kempinski Palace Engelberg marked by an accommodating staff of professionals who uphold the highest standards of Swiss hospitality. One day, as we indulged in afternoon tea in the Wintergarden, we felt pure bliss at the thought of having escaped to an enchanted Alpine retreat, far from the madness of the outside world.
Photography courtesy of Kempinski
