You might expect to find a rather traditional Swiss hotel experience behind the storied walls of the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski, but this St Moritz icon continues to surprise and delight guests with cultural activations, state-of-the-art wellness facilities and a dinner show concept to remember.
Silently and steadily, the snow kept falling, mounds of meringue and spun sugar drizzling from the trees. We were snowshoeing through the Swiss Alps like trappers in Hudson Bay; we were high above the village of St. Moritz at an elevation of 2,486 m/8,156 ft. The snow muffled all noise as we trekked through the pine forest, and it seemed as if we were the sole survivors of snowmageddon.
And then suddenly there appeared a gentleman in full livery and Pershing cap, his greatcoat laden with epaulettes and gold braiding. He carried a pair of skis upon his shoulders, and following behind him was a woman who might have catwalked from the pages of a fashion magazine. She stood silently as the man in livery fitted the skis and bindings upon her feet – and then she was off down the slopes.
In St. Moritz, there’s no end to the cosseting and coddling, and there’s no request unable to be addressed by the staff of so many five-star superior hotels. Our snowshoe guide told us of an exclusive Moncler ad campaign filmed in the forest where we were snowshoeing and then nodded toward a private home nestled into the hill. “House of Gucci,” she whispered. “The scene with Lady Gaga and her demitasse spoon.”
“Unconventional punishment” may have been the term Gaga used in House of Gucci, but there is absolutely nothing punishing about a sojourn in St. Moritz, especially while in residence at the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski. Opened in 1864, the Belle Époque palace hotel was built around the mineral-rich Mauritius spring, notable for its restorative waters (hence the name Grand Hotel des Bains). The hotel’s elegant spa is a veritable thermae, with various saunas including Finnish, bio, herbal, and stone, as well as an indoor/outdoor pool and a Kneipp stream.
As we stepped into the hotel’s cryotherapy cube, we thought again of Gaga’s phrase, “unconventional punishment.” Derived from the Greek word for “cold”, cryotherapy reduces après-ski inflammation while also relieving chronic pain and offsetting jet lag. We were believers even before we disrobed and stepped into the refrigerator where we were told to dance to the music, which we did – before moving into the freezer where we danced with even more vigor. The four-minute treatment might seem like an eternity given that you’re dancing at -110°C but we remained invigorated throughout the evening.
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| The Sophisticate | ZRH / SMV | GMT +1 |
| While you’re Out There |
| For more than 30 years, the annual St. Moritz Gourmet Festival has attracted global gourmands to the “Top of the World” to experience the culinary arts of some of the world’s most acclaimed chefs. Held during the last week of January through the 1st of February, each year’s festival hosts ten international chefs who work together with nine executive chefs from Engadin’s top luxury hotels. Since its inception in 1994, the Gourmet Festival has hosted 265 guest chefs from more than 40 countries. If you’re lucky, you might find a chance to sit down with Nobu Matsuhisa as we did one year. During the course of the festival, guests partake in events such as the Gourmet Safari, Fascination Champagne, and the wildly popular Kitchen Party held in the kitchen of a host hotel, as well as the Grand Gourmet Closing Show at Billionaire St. Moritz at the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski. Start your salivary glands and prepare for gluttony. |
Then again, who wouldn’t feel energized at Billionaire, the 13-act dinner show at Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski? The purpose-built club marks the St. Moritz debut of Flavio Briatore‘s iconic nightclub experience which includes outposts in Dubai, Sardinia, and Monte Carlo. On the club’s opening weekend, we were seated in a banquette overlooking the stage and the main floor with perfect sightlines for a mesmerizing array of talent that punctuated the three-hour dinner show. Imagine Cirque du Soleil performing in a Michelin-starred restaurant with an audience seemingly imported from Milan Fashion Week, and you have an idea of the unforgettable experience. The energy was infectious throughout the evening and by the show’s end, everyone was dancing, dinner napkins and sparklers swirling in the air.
Nightlife has always been an integral part of St. Moritz, and a nightcap at The Lounge offered a perfect perspective on our fellow night owls. At the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski, there’s plenty of caviar, served with blini, as well as champagne, and room service is 24/7 in the event that you might crave another serving of the caviar and tagliatelle that went down so easily at the hotel’s Ristorante Da Adriano.
Rooms and suites at the 213-key hotel are marked by Alpine elegance, which is particularly noticeable in the dedicated wing of 26 rooms and suites freshly renovated in 2023. Our Executive Double offered spectacular views of the hotel’s snow-covered park and the mountains beyond, with a bird’s-eye view of guests arriving by horse and carriage or trekking home from the neighbouring gondola. A soaking tub and walk-in rainforest shower eased the transition into slumber where we dreamed of the hotel’s copious breakfast buffet.
Served in the majestic Grand Restaurant Les Saisons, breakfast is a civilized affair with guests dressed for the slopes. Befitting a five-star establishment, we were warmed by the professionalism of a staff that recalled our dietary preferences from the night before and guided us to the winter truffle with asparagus, one of the many à la carte choices that complemented the abundance of the buffet.
St. Moritz has claimed “Top of the World” as its trademark moniker, and when in residence at the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski, it’s easy to feel that one is living at the summit of service, for details like nightly turndown including hand cream to combat the dryness of the high altitude go a long way in conveying a sense of thoughtful hospitality. We were equally pleased by the pillow menu and tempted by the offer to launder, fold, and pack our belongings at the conclusion of our stay.
When travelling to the “Top of the World”, it’s good to remember that St. Moritz has more than 300 days of annual sunshine, and while the mercury might read cold, the dryness of the Alpine air is far less cold than the damp cold of lower altitudes.
For those guests who desire complete privacy, Engadin Airport, located just ten minutes from the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski, offers private jet service, as well as helicopter tours and flights. Private transfers can be arranged to Zurich airport, and there’s also Swiss Rail leaving from St. Moritz station at the edge of the lake. Or you might consider staying on and experiencing summer in St. Moritz. With 300 days of annual sunshine, it’s a place that’s easy to love throughout the year.
Photography courtesy of Kempinski
