The perfect fit for those who have ‘done’ Bali before and now want to feel it instead, 2021-opened Nirjhara (meaning ‘waterfall’ in Sanskrit) tempts with a serene setting fringed by rice terraces, coconut palms and its eponymous, on-property cascade. But far from being just a soulful hideaway, this is a resort for those in the know.
As far as arrival experiences go, the one at Nirjhara is remarkably considered. There’s the shaded driveway fringed by bamboo and banana plants that convey a sense of privacy and seclusion, the contemporary, open-air reception that teases the striking design lying ahead, the sit-back-and-relax check-in procedure, and the iced rosella tea you’re handed as a member of the team presents you with three fragrance samples: they’re to determine what type of scented amenities you’d like on your room, a showcase of the hotel’s commitment to tailor-made hospitality. As we sipped on our tea, we stepped onto a platform embedded into a large-scale water feature resembling a jungle cascade, and looked out over Nirjhara’s main pool, where a straw-hat-wearing crowd licked freshly made popsicles. We hadn’t just arrived, we found ourselves thinking, but stepped into a microcosm.
That microcosm, in numbers, spans two hectares of tropical gardens near the village of Kedungu on Bali’s increasingly hip southwestern coast, dotted with 25 suites and villas boasting traditional bamboo shingle (‘sirap’) roofing. The hotel’s location feels intentional, placing guests in a part of Bali that retains a somewhat more laidback feel, and Nirjhara’s curatorial direction only emphasises this proposition: lantern-like lights flicker on the grounds at night, service – though immaculate – is never stuffy, the resort’s waterfall accompanies each stay with naturally stress-reducing brown noise, and a property-wide playlist courtesy of Nirjhara’s General Manager (an OutThere man himself, who makes time to get to know each guest personally) is positively nirvana-inducing.
Wanting to stay in the hotel’s most original accommodation type, we opted for one of its seven 60 sqm/646 sqft Canopy Suite treehouses with a tropical cabin feel. On its first floor, a kingsize bed sat next to a floor-to-ceiling window wall beyond which playfully positioned wooden planks framed a view of the surrounding coconut grove. The interiors were panelled with reclaimed ironwood and teak while contemporary furnishings contrasted beautifully with the more rustic surface textures and Philippe Starck-designed fittings added a contemporary touch to our bathroom. We would’ve liked a little more shelf space here, especially given that we’re firm believers in practicality and great design going hand in hand, but others might find the somewhat simpler furnishing of the Canopy Suites to add a sense of intimacy when staying with their other halves.
| Perfect for | Fly into | Right on time |
| The Insider | DPS | GMT +8 |
| While you’re Out There |
| Though we won’t blame you for lazing away a day or two by Nirjhara’s seriously tempting pool, you’d miss out if you didn’t sign up for a few of the many experiences on offer. Our favourite was a guided, early morning bike ride through rice paddies and down to Tanah Lot, one of Bali’s most significant (and conveniently picturesque) Hindu sites. The temple is built onto a rock formation that’s partially submerged when the tide is high – you’ll want to bring a camera. |
Up a spiral staircase, our partially roofed open-air deck arguably made for our treehouse’s most elevated feature – literally – and we spent many a lazy afternoon here, lounging in our round daybed, sipping on iced teas in our rooftop dining area amidst the canopy, or soaking in our oversized, freestanding bathtub beneath the stars at night. Though higher-level accommodation types at Nirjhara feature plunge and swimming pools, and the top-end, 600 sqm/6,458 sqft Residence at the resort’s far end boasts a 14-metre infinity pool overlooking the tropical forest, we rather liked our Canopy Suite and appreciated that even entry-level rooms come with a layout that inspires engagement with the space – let alone artisanal features and perks like a thoughtfully stocked minibar, premium bath salts and distressed linen robes.
The latter came in handy each time we floated down to the spa, where a pavilion on the water serves as the gateway to both a 24-hour fitness centre equipped with Finnish saunas, as well as a number of treatment rooms. Ours was a couples treatment suite home to a statement bathtub that we rather enjoyed slipping into ahead of a 2-hour Sacred Man Blessing. The treatment incorporated everything from a deep tissue massage and a ginger compress on our lower back to a body scrub and a divine botanical facial with Ayurvedic marma point stimulation. Refreshingly, several therapies on offer infuse wellness elements with dining experiences (like the Rama & Sita treatment) or even with a touch of spirituality (like the Temple Blessing Ceremony, which immerses guests in Balinese culture). Those looking to unwind further will enjoy a yoga or meditation class in Nirjhara’s riverside bamboo shala, whose wave-like roof blends right into the natural surroundings.
Just a few steps upstream, breezy Ambu serves as the resort’s sole restaurant, where Indonesian and wider Asian fare meet Western classics. We loved the former, from the Sundanese karedok salad to a laksa made vegan for us, although we would have appreciated a plant-based option or two for the latter – especially on the dinner menu. That said, the staff were trained to help us put together balanced meals to suit our dietaries, and we only once felt like we were missing out, repeat-ordering a starter for a lack of choices. A bottle of the excellent 2021 Craggy Range Chardonnay helped to console us (order some, if it’s the last thing you do), and so did the delectable ‘breakfast boards’, of which the hotel offers two varieties: the Nusantara board, a celebration of flavours from across the Indonesian archipelago, and the wellness board, a nutritious rainbow of coconut chia seed puddings, granola energy bars, jamu shots and the like.
If you’re the type that can’t sit still for long, Nirjhara has a number of activities ranging from the ‘best of Bali’ to off-the-beaten-track adventures up its experiential sleeve. Not that we think that ticking things off the list is what staying here is all about… With an on-site boutique, a library and a cinema, the resort makes it easy to take it easy. And its unconstrained atmosphere pays off, inspiring a crowd of like-minded souls to mingle poolside or chit-chat over Pantai Punches by the bar. As solo travellers, we never felt out of place, as can be the case at the island’s more honeymoon-centric luxury resorts. Nirjhara, with its tailored approach that would appeal to many a ‘been-before’ traveller, arguably trades on a slice of Bali that’s gotten lost elsewhere. Here, you still feel like guests in the next-door villa are friends with the owners – or heard about the hotel from a pal with exceptional taste.
Photography courtesy of Nirjhara
