Nicholas Oakwell of NO Uniform is the man of the hour in all things hotel attire: having made a name for himself in the industry, he’s designed for some of our favourite brands, including Four Seasons, Mandarin Oriental, Raffles, Rosewood and Maybourne. The key to his success? It’s arguably to do with Nicholas’ stance on designing uniforms that, as he puts it, ’empowers individuals with a sense of pride and confidence’. Meet the designer behind the world’s best foyer fashions.
It seems as if since time immemorial Nicholas Oakwell’s outfits and accessories have been adding a spark to the fashion world. The Cyprus-born fifty-something enrolled at Epsom School of Art and Design in 1985, eager to learn everything he could about the craft of clothes and how to turn his ideas into apparel. One of his modules was in millinery and, a young student eager to learn, Nicholas gravitated towards it with such flair and distinction, that he sold a collection of hats inspired by the Covent Garden flower market to Harvey Nichols.
Over the following years, as well as continuing to produce hats and setting up and making a success out of his own label, the designer was employed in various positions, working, for example, as the head of Harvey Nichols’ workroom. The job allowed Nicholas to partake in training courses in areas including finance, HR and marketing, and health & safety, which enhanced his business acumen.
It was during this time at the luxury Knightsbridge emporium, that Nicholas was asked by a friend to develop uniforms for a boutique hotel in Chelsea and, as the commission proved extremely fruitful, formed NO Uniform in 2002. Since then, as the bespoke design firm’s Managing Director, Nicholas has overseen the creation of the titular garments for an international clientele including Claridge’s, Dorado Beach (a Ritz-Carlton Reserve), Fairmont, Raffles and, very recently, the newly opened Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, amongst others. Reason enough for a sit-down with the affable, charismatic couturier to ask him how he got where he is today.
How old were you when you first realised you wanted to be a fashion designer?
Honestly, I cannot remember when I ever wanted to be anything other than a fashion designer.
What influenced you to choose this career path and did anybody in the industry particularly inspire you?
My mother was a model, and she had a huge influence on me. As you can imagine, I grew up surrounded by fashion. She used to make clothes for herself and for me while I was growing up. This not only fuelled my love of fashion but also deepened my appreciation for the construction and art of creating garments.
How did you come up with the idea for NO Uniform?
I was working at Harvey Nichols, managing the workrooms, when I was approached by a friend who was a food and beverage consultant. They asked me to design the uniforms for a boutique hotel in Chelsea called My Hotel.
I designed and delivered the uniforms, and at the launch party, I ended up speaking to the General Manager of the Great Eastern Hotel, who offered me the opportunity to design the uniforms for that hotel. If I’m honest, I wasn’t keen at first. I mean, I don’t design uniforms; I’m a fashion designer. But then she shared with me the generous budget – I think it was around a quarter of a million pounds for 200 people. So after that, I started to design uniforms!
Not long after the project concluded, I resigned from Harvey Nichols and launched NO Uniform. I love hospitality, so being able to design clothes in these environments is amazing. Combining fashion and hospitality is a dream role.
How did the collaboration with Mandarin Oriental Mayfair come about and what was it like working with the prestigious hotel group?
I was approached by Mandarin Oriental after they’d seen many of our projects around the world. Of course, being recognised by such a prestigious brand is always an honour. We worked very closely with the General Manager, Susanne Hatje, who shared my vision and wanted something different for the Mayfair hotel. It’s a project I’m very proud of because the uniforms play such a large role.
When it came to the design process, what were some of the key factors you took into consideration?
The location of the hotel was a huge factor, as it often is. It backs onto Savile Row and is adjacent to Bond Street. We focused heavily on British tailoring, while also incorporating fashion brands with an Asian influence.
Additionally, we needed to consider the shift in atmospheres and experiences from morning to evening. To create this fluidity, we designed day and evening garments for the social and dining outlets throughout the hotel.
What’s your approach when it comes to non-gendered uniforms and why do you consider them important?
I believe that dress is a vital form of self-expression even when wearing a uniform that you are required to wear as an employee. Obviously, we are still required to design traditional gender silhouettes throughout hospitality, but ultimately we want to empower individuals with a sense of pride and confidence.
It’s been interesting to see that, in recent years, our male blocks have had much more shape to them. Meanwhile – in the UK at least – a lot of the female staff members we are measuring would prefer trousers over dresses. Perhaps this is a practical request, but nonetheless, it shows that the lines between male and female are blurring.
Does your sexuality influence your approach to design?
Actually, no. I couldn’t be prouder of my sexuality but when it comes to my work I wouldn’t say it has an influence.
Have you ever turned down any potential collaborations?
I don’t have any juicy stories about falling out with clients to share, but I am not afraid to have very honest conversations with those who want to work with us to manage expectations on how long it takes, for example, to produce a bespoke wardrobe collection, and what the cost of that would be.
We are continually approached by hospitality brands from all corners of the industry, which is a nice problem to have – I think hospitality has really woken up to see the value of what we do. In turn, due to the commitment we need to show to each project, we do have to turn down projects from time to time.
What key bits of advice would you give to someone who wants to become a fashion designer or is just starting out in the business?
Always follow your vision, stay true to yourself and surround yourself with a good team.
How important do you consider DEI (Diversity, Equity & Inclusion), and does it play a part in NO Uniform’s ethos?
At NO Uniform, we prioritise employing individuals based on merit and talent. We are setting new standards and are proud to be an industry disrupter.
Working in a creative environment, it is crucial for us to maintain an atmosphere where the team feel encouraged to be themselves and express their unique creativity. I believe that diversity, equity and inclusion – and just having the space to be yourself – are essential to drive innovation and creativity, in our studio at least.
Are there any future projects you have in the pipeline that you might be able to tell us about?
Unfortunately, I cannot disclose anything as I have signed NDAs. However, what I can say is that there are some late-night Zoom meetings for some very exciting projects on the horizon.
Is there anything about the fashion industry you’d like to see change and, if so, what?
I would like to see mandated rules implemented on large corporations, and fast-fashion businesses producing single-wear products… These are both unsustainable for the environment and consumers. I believe in longevity – not trends.
Photography courtesy of NO Uniform
